New Alpinism SJohnston copy New Alpinism_cover

Patagonia, March 2014
464 pages
$35 US

TNA LOG-lores
Patagonia, April 2015
Paperback, spiral bound
224 pages
$17.95 US



Co-authors of Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

Steve House (Ridgeway, CO)

World-renowned alpinist, mountain guide, author and coach

Scott Johnston (Mazama, WA)

Lifelong athlete, climber and coach


Stephanie Ridge | | 512-481-7681 | Twitter: @stephanieridge



  • House and Johnston have pioneered a groundbreaking athletic training approach to alpine climbing. It is the first to translate training theory into practice.
  • Their 464-page manual, Training for the New Alpinism: The Climber Athlete’s Manual, lays out scientifically-based methodology aimed at all levels of athletes.
  • The book applies training practices from other endurance sports, demonstrating that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance.
  • Climbing and bouldering as a work is increasing in popularity, as are the number of climbing and bouldering gyms throughout the country. According to Outside Magazine, 1,000 people per day are taking up climbing as their preferred workout.
  • The Outdoor Industry Association puts total participation in the sport in the United States at 4.7 million to 6.9 million people, as of 2011.


Steve House

  • World-renowned climber, mountain guide, and Patagonia Ambassador
  • Widely regarded for his light-and-fast style
  • Has written for numerous magazines and is author of Beyond the Mountain (Patagonia Books, 2009)

Scott Johnston

  • Has ski raced on a national and international level
  • Coach of US National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers
  • An avid climber, he enjoys establishing local climbing routes around his hometown of Mazama, WA

In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House and Scott Johnston translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal.

They combine more than 60 years of experience to demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport, and leads to better performance.

The book delivers detailed instruction on training tailored to your individual circumstances. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, whether you live in the city or the country, whether you are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals will grow exponentially as you work with this book.

Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude adaptation, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. The book also features inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd, and:

  • color photos, illustrations, graphs and charts throughout
  • customizable training plans
  • unique exercises created for alpine training
  • a review of the mental skills undertaken by seasoned climbers
  • training regimens for urban and gym settings

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